The double-breasted long vest jacket is one of the most versatile pieces of outerwear out there, and can look great with just about anything from jeans to dress pants or even slacks.

Here are some tips on how to buy one that suits your style and fits you perfectly.

1. Shape

There are three main styles of double-breasted long vest jackets: a regular horizontal-line silhouette that buttons straight up, a shawl collar that buttons all the way up, and a shawl collar that buttons only halfway up. The first kind can be just as stylish as the third, but you may find yourself buttoning one or two of the lower buttons, especially if you’re wearing it over something bulky like sweaters or if you don’t want to accentuate your waist too much.

2. Material

The three main types of materials used for double-breasted long vest jackets are wool, cashmere, and a blend of wool with another material. Wool or a wool blend is the most common choice. Shawl collar double-breasted long vest jackets are usually made in cashmere or a blend, because of their softness and natural stretchiness – something that won’t happen with wool.

3. Price

Pretty much every manufacturer of double-breasted long vest jackets makes all three types of models, and the prices will depend on which material it’s made out of, how much give the wool or blend in cashmere gives when it’s being stretched over your shoulders, and how many buttons are on the jacket. The cheaper models will have fewer buttons but more fabric that can be stretched; the more expensive ones will have fewer buttons and higher quality fabric.

4. Do I need a watch or bracelet?

The classic double-breasted long vest jacket will fit right over your wrist, but if you want it to also serve as a crossing guard, you may want to wear your watch or bracelet under it. The same thing goes for shirts that have buttons more towards the neck; they should be worn on top of the vest.

5. Pit zips vs. Venting

Double-breasted long vest jackets usually have one or multiple vents in the back to help you cool down while you’re outside. If you’re wearing a thicker shirt underneath, however, the vents might not do much, so you may want to buy a model with pit zips instead. Also note that these are more for looks than for function; their openings may be small and hard to access in order to make them look really classy.